Surigao - Don't Judge a Town by its Smells, but its Smiles

Zooming along in7 knots of positive current on our way to Surigao! 

January 2020

Checking into the Philippines required us to stop in Surigao, a shipping port and crowded city in the eastern islands.  Our prior stop in Sairgao, the eco-conscious surf destination, made Surigao look like an absolute pit.  As we dinghied into the man-made channel where the small fishing boats docked, the water beneath us turned a putrid shade of brownish yellow and the smell in emitted was even more disgusting.  I did not want to fall in here.

As we debated about tide levels and the best way to tie up the dinghy (stern line?), some friendly men offered to take our bow line and helped us get situated.  What this place lacked in asthetics, it would prove to make up for in kindness.  During our quick 5-hour schlep to Immigration, Customs, Port Authority, and the fresh produce market, the people of Surigao we encountered along the way would insulate us from the abrupt shock of the big city.

Just days ago, we’d been enjoying the quiet bliss of a clean, cozy surf town - watching the waves roll in as we pulled rambutans from our eco-friendly paper bag and ate coconut icecream from an actual coconut bowl using a coconut spoon.  Obviously, the community of Siargao went to extreme efforts to maintain their pristine surroundings.  Was it the foreign tourists and expats instigating this green living or a forward-thinking Filipino?  Either way, the aesthetics of Siargao couldn’t have been more different than what we’d find in Surigao.

Enjoying eco-friendly coconut ice cream in Siargao

The shock of a busy port after days surfing and walking along beautiful beaches

Ferry ships zoomed in and out of port, rolling Field Trip violently from side to side.  Huge container ships woke us at 3 a.m. with their required horn blasts upon arrival and departure.    Habal-habals (modified motorcycle taxis) vied for position in tight traffic along streets lined with puddles of who-knows-what.  Tangles of power lines hung haphazardly all around us.  Children beseiged us with hands outstretched.  Rancid smells accosted us around every corner.  Eco-friendly?  Asthetically pleasing?  Not even close.

Our rearview, sitting in traffic in Surigao

And the festive view in front!

But the people.  Drivers patiently tried to decipher our desired destination as we fumbled with our phones through google maps, even asking other drivers if they had any idea where we wanted to go.  A customs official not only offered Mark a hot cup of coffee (that was a first!), but also specifically came out to meet the rest of us in the waiting area to warmly welcome us to Surigao!  In the fresh market, while I was busy buying provisions for the next week, a stall owner next door quietly kept the kids company.  In my peripheral hearing, I could make out his inquiries, “Where are you from?  Have you been here before?  How old are you?”  It was a sweet glimpse into the quiet friendliness of the Filipino people.

The 5-hour stop was an exhausting one; navigating traffic, motorcycle fumes, tropical heat and uncertain directions in order to get all the signatures and stamps we needed for official entry into the Philippines.  Then, sloshing through the fish and meat market to get to the fresh produce, holding my nose as inconspicuously as possible to fend off the stench.  But it got us what we needed - clearance papers and fresh food - with over a dozen friendly faces to accompany us along the way.

Always happy to be home again!